#Mastercam x4 inclined surface crack

The next moves are 10c/d, I believe they are considered harder now because of a missing flake. Resting before the roof is very awkward as you are very scrunched in this chimney. Once in the chimney, you can clip a pin below the roof and back it up with some small stoppers and a blue Metolius TCU. The hardest might entail hiking your right foot up onto a left-angling rail. I couldn't identify a single crux there are about four or five very technical moves to get situated in the chimney. From this last pin, intricate moves lead up and into the chimney. This is definitely not a death pitch, it is only mildly spicy.

One could probably back these pieces up even more if so inclined. A small purple Metolius TCU can be placed below the pin, together these two pieces provide adequate protection, and a fall from the crux onto them would be reasonable. I have heard people telling me it was a death pitch. Rossiter gives it an s rating in his latest guidebook because of this piton. I have heard many wildly varying accounts of this pitch. The dihedral takes you up and right into some underclings where you encounter a second pin. Gear can be had below the pin, and while this pin is not great, it is adequate for the move. The initial dihedral is a thin 10c affair, and has a pin protecting the hard move. Set the belay at the base of a rotten ramp/alcove deal.ДЇrom here the fourth pitch should be obvious, a right-leaning dihedral that turns into a chimney with a roof at the top. This pitch wanders quite a bit, and long runners are needed to alleviate rope drag. Be aware that it would be a pretty runout lead. It is the easiest pitch, and if for some reason you are taking a second who leads in the 5.9 range, you might be inclined to let him lead this pitch. It heads up the right side of the arete to a mantle onto a juggy hold. All of the pitches on this route are approximately a half ropelength (80-90 feet) and some can be combined. The belay at the top is double bolt on a stance on the arete. Perhaps it is if you are incompetent at placing stoppers there is a textbook RP placement right in your face for this move, this placement eliminates any s rating this pitch might have. For this reason, some guidebooks give this pitch an R rating. A fall off this move would throw you back around the arete and wouldn't be too pleasant. A good #1 Camalot can be placed at the base of this crack, but this piece will be below your feet for the crux move off a sloper.

#Mastercam x4 inclined surface crack

Crank up this crack a little ways to an ok stance. This deposits one at the base of a left-angling crack. Begin with twenty feet of unprotected 5.8 slab up to a bolt just right of the arete, climb for twenty more feet up to another bolt (5.8) and step around left to the other side of the arete. The second pitch is just as classic, if a tad spicy. If this pitch felt hard, remember that the last two are significantly harder and more involved. This pitch protects very well with small stoppers and TCUs. This last move, while not very hard in and of itself, is definitely the crux of this beautiful pitch. Once in the crack, the finger jams are very good yet the steep sustained nature pumps you out for one last 5.10 move to the two-bolt belay. The moves off the rest are accomplished by stemming in the groove and using a small edge for your left hand. Getting off this rest stance is supposedly the 11a crux of this pitch. Make some 9-ish moves to get to a small rest stance halfway up the crack. It lies in a sort of groove which lends it nicely to stemming. It is a clean finger crack 5 feet to the right of a classic arete. The first pitch, a classic finger crack, is a great start to a very memorable route.

From the Lower Ramp climb the Cave Pitch, an interesting 5.8 overhang, and reach a three-bolt belay at the base of the first pitch. 8 crack thirty feet to the right that ended at some bolts near the base of Anthill Direct. Touch 'N' Go had a line on it when we were racking up, and we took a runout. There are several ways to reach the base of the Edge, the easiest and quickest is Touch 'N' Go. The Edge is one of the most classic climbs in America. Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty)